Hassun plate of seasonal vegetables and dishes featuring Chinese lantern plant, water chestnut, and deep-fried fu (wheat gluten) with nori.

Shojin ryori, a type of vegetarian cuisine made with vegetables, seaweed, mushrooms and other plant-based foods, was originally the diet of Zen Buddhist monks. These dishes do not contain either animal-based ingredients or the “five pungent roots” (garlic, onions, leeks, chives, and shallots), out of respect for Buddhist teachings. Once only served at temples and specialty restaurants, it is now easy to order this vegetarian fare at more and more restaurants and cafes in Japan, with the increasing interest in vegetarian cuisine.

One restaurant serving vegetarian meals is SOUGO in Tokyo’s Roppongi neighborhood. Owner-chef Nomura Daisuke is listed as one of the world’s 50 pioneering chefs in plant-based cuisine.

“Chefs from other countries are surprised by the variety of cooking methods we use,” says Nomura of his truly diverse 12-course meals. The restaurant's menu features a steamed kabocha winter squash dish called Shojin Pudding, steaks made of abalone mushrooms, and other contemporary dishes unknown in traditional Japanese vegetarian cuisine. These dishes are prepared various ways—grilled, steamed, boiled, and deep-fried—upending the image of vegetarian dishes as simple and healthy but bland.

SOUGO does, of course, serve traditional dishes such as goma tofu, which is made from white sesame seeds, and fritters made with tofu and vegetables called hiryuzu.