niponica

2023 NO.34

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Strolling JapanStrolling Japan

8

The Lake Shore Home of Fermentation
Nagahama

Visit the banks of a vast lake to discover fermentation wisdom gained from natural, historical practices.

Photos: Osaka Satoshi, Aflo, PIXTA

Chikubushima at dusk viewed from Lake Biwa’s northern shore

Located near the center of the Japanese archipelago, Lake Biwa is the largest lake in Japan. The picturesque city of Nagahama in Shiga Prefecture stretches along the lake’s eastern shore and is richly blessed by nature. Bounded by the majestic Ibuki Mountains, the city offers views of the mysterious Chikubushima, a small island, said to be the home of the gods, which floats in Lake Biwa.

Nagahama initially flourished as the castle town for Nagahama Castle, which was built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, the military commander who unified Japan in the 16th century. Starting in the Edo period (1603–1868), it grew into a town of inns welcoming travelers on the Hokkoku Kaido, the main road which connected Kyoto and the Hokuriku region. Taking advantage of its strategic location on the lake shore as a shipping port, it further developed as a commercial town. The vestiges of this history can be seen in Kurokabe Square, a sightseeing destination full of historical warehouses and homes that have been turned into stores today. Visitors can walk one kilometer east from the square to the gate of Nagahama Hachimangu, an ancient shrine with a history of nearly 1,000 years. The Nagahama Hikiyama Festival, held at the shrine each year in April, is renowned for its procession of gorgeous floats featuring unique kabuki performances by children.

Nagahama Castle, built by Toyotomi Hideyoshi. The castle tower standing here today is a reconstruction of the original.

Kurokabe Square lined with black stucco buildings

Kabuki performances by children on parading floats are a highlight of the Nagahama Hikiyama Festival. (Photo: Nagahama Hikiyama Cultural Association)