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2023 NO.34

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Strolling JapanStrolling Japan

8

The Lake Shore Home of Fermentation
Nagahama

Funa-zushi has a distinctive fermented aroma and rich umami taste. (Photo: Tokuyama Zushi)

Funa-zushi served with cream cheese and fruit jelly, aside beautiful views of Lake Yogo, which lies to the north of Lake Biwa.

The waterfront city of Nagahama is richly blessed with the diverse animal and plant life of Lake Biwa. Seafood is particularly abundant here, and recipes for fermenting local ingredients have been passed down from ancient times to the present day. One of the most well known of these is funa-zushi, which is made from the round crucian carp that is endemic to Lake Biwa. The carp are caught in spring and pickled in salt, packed in cooked rice, and fermented with lactic acid. The recipe is said to be the precursor to sushi. There are many famous funa-zushi restaurants throughout Nagahama, but for a unique taste experience, visit Tokuyama Zushi, an inn and restaurant about a 30-minute drive north of the city center. Also featuring other rare fermented foods made from local ingredients, the restaurant offers the opportunity to experience exceptional flavors—all while relaxing in the natural beauty of the Kohoku region on the northern bank of Lake Biwa. Nagahama is also home to many breweries that make sake from rice and koji mold. Making the most of the outstanding local rice and Okuibuki mountain range water that flows in a subterranean river, the Tomita Shuzo Brewery brews sake, as well as sweets made from the sake lees that are a byproduct of the sake-making process.

Umi no Schole, a commercial and cultural fermentationthemed facility, opened in 2021. Visitors can explore the brewery and shop, take part in hands-on miso and cheese making, and bring amazake made on site as a souvenir. Umi no Schole offers a great deal of learning and fun, all focused on the fermentation culture that has been cultivated in Nagahama.

Spots to enjoy fermented foods are dotted throughout Nagahama, and a walk around the city is a great way to enjoy the area’s natural surroundings and history. This is a highly recommended trip for those looking to experience Japanese food that is a bit different than the usual fare.

Inside the Tomita Shuzo Brewery, with a history of over 480 years, and the brewery’s gelato made from sake lees.

Top left: Visitors have the opportunity to observe how koji is fermented.
Bottom left: Miso and soy sauce produced in Shiga Prefecture are also available for purchase.
Right: Cakes made with koji and cheese served at the shop cafe.

Nagahama Area Map

①Chikubushima②Nagahama Castle③Kurokabe Square④Nagahama Hachimangu⑤Tokuyama Zushi⑥Tomita Shuzo⑦Umi no Schole

●Access

From Tokyo Station, about 2.5 hours to Nagahama Station on Tokaido Shinkansen and JR Hokuriku Main lines. From Osaka Station, about 1.5 hours to Nagahama Station on JR Tokaido Main Line.

●Contact information

Travel Guide Northern Lake Biwa
https://kitabiwako.jp/en/travel_guide