Photos: Arai Akiko

Parfaits with seasonal fruits like Shine Muscat grapes (pictured). Below the fruit are layers of amazake gelato, cream cheese and caramelized walnuts.

Koji, a type of mold that grows when rice, barley, soybeans, and other sources are inoculated with koji-kin (koji starter), is essential to making the fermented foods that are foundational to Japanese cuisine. The scientific name for the koji starter is Aspergillus oryzae, a microorganism of such importance that it is recognized as the national fungus of Japan.

Amazake, a traditional fermented drink made from a rice malt that combines rice and koji, has recently gained new-found popularity as a health food. Surprisingly sweet despite having no added sugar, and belying its name (which translates literally to “sweet sake”), amazake is a non-alcoholic drink that can be enjoyed by both children and adults alike. It is so nutritious that it has even been called “a drinkable intravenous infusion.”

To make amazake, water is added to rice malt and stored at a constant temperature around 60 °C for six to eight hours. As the rice starch transforms into glucose and oligosaccharides, the drink takes on a full-bodied sweetness. Amazake is also rich in essential amino acids, B vitamins, and other nutrients. In addition to containing oligosaccharides, which beneficial gut bacteria feed on, amazake also contains an amino acid called ergothioneine, which is believed to have a strong antioxidant effect that slows aging and helps prevent lifestyle-related diseases. Delicious on its own as a drink, amazake is recently also featured as an ingredient in sweet confections — another way to enjoy this carefully fermented, refreshing brew.

There is a koji specialty shop in Kamakura in Kanagawa Prefecture, a popular destination for tourists, called “sawvi,” which serves sweets made with amazake. The in-store cafe there serves a variety of these delicacies. Shop-owner Terasaka Hiroshi explains, “Amazake has a sweetness that is much milder than sugar. Not only sweet, the amino acids in it also impart umami and a delightful depth of flavor.” Even so, amazake itself lacks a strong flavor or aroma, so it works well with creamy dairy ingredients and tart fruit flavors.

Popular amazake sweets on the sawvi menu include a roll cake with amazake-infused whipped cream and sweet soybean paste, as well as parfaits layered with amazake-infused gelato and seasonal fruit. Each spoonful of the gelato fills the mouth with gentle rice flavors, and the natural sweetness is easily absorbed and can help refresh a tired body. Funny how hearing that sweet treats are nutritious lessens the guilt that comes with enjoying them!

Amazake sweets are not only good for you; they are also delicious and pleasing to the eye. For those who do not like the idea of fermented foods or are just trying one for the first time, these desserts are sure to win over many new fans.

Left: The koji specialty shop sawvi, with its instore cafe, is nestled quietly in a lushly green Kamakura valley.
Right: sawvi’s handmade rice malt (left) and amazake (right)