Patterned Echizen Washi paper

The main building of Okamoto-Otaki Jinja Shrine, erected in the 19th century. The shrine is dedicated to Kawakami Gozen, the goddess of paper (right).

Roughly three hours from Tokyo on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, Echizen Takefu Station in Echizen City, Fukui Prefecture, opened in the spring of 2024. The city lies in a basin surrounded on three sides by mountains and was once a seat of political power as the kokufu, or provincial capital. The city served as the gateway to the Hokuriku region from Kyoto, enjoying a thriving exchange of people and goods that gave rise over the centuries to a singular culture and unique set of industries all its own.

Traces of these traditions can be found throughout the temples, shrines, and neighborhoods. Yet, to truly learn about the local history and culture, an exploration of Echizen Washi is a must. Its impressive quality is mentioned in ancient documents from the 8th century. In the Edo period (1603-1868), the official documents of court nobles and shogun military leaders were written on Echizen Hosho, the highest quality Echizen Washi. This paper later came to be used for banknotes and Japanese paintings, and to this day Echizen is known for producing some of the finest washi paper in Japan.

The center of Echizen Washi production is the Goka district, home to Okamoto-Otaki Jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Kawakami Gozen, the goddess of paper.

The streets of the Goka district are still lined with 50 washi crafters today. The first place to visit is the Udatsu Paper and Craft Museum. Located in an 18th century building, the museum welcomes visitors to observe the washi making process up close. The tree bark used to make the paper is boiled to soften it, cleaned of impurities, pounded to loosen the fibers, mixed with a substance called neri from the aibika plant, and placed in a sukibune vat. A wooden frame called a sugeta is moved through the mixture with a gentle rocking motion to scoop the pulp until the frame is filled with a sheet of pulp. The pulp is then peeled off the sugeta and left to dry into a sheet of washi paper. The sight of papermakers, hands submerged in cold water, deftly rocking their sugeta, has been common here since ancient times.

Yanase Ryozo Seishijo uses traditional handmade techniques to craft Echizen Washi, but with a modern twist. This washi, which is patterned using molds, is so supple that it can be used as wrapping paper and book covers. The workshop welcomes visitors to try their hand at the papermaking process, a chance visitors will not want to miss.

Dyed and patterned washi is also used for small items such as fanshaped bookmarks (right).