Modern Twists Breathe New Life into Kimono

(Photo courtesy of hiyoko and GARO and Takuya Angel)

(Photo courtesy of hiyoko and GARO and Takuya Angel)

Japanese kimono is a clothing tradition with a history of more than a thousand years. For a long time, the popularity of kimono seemed to be on the decline, as the everyday dress of Japanese people became more and more westernized. Young Japanese people these days typically wear kimono only for important ceremonial events such as Shichi-Go-San (a rite of passage for children) and Coming of Age Day. But recently, a growing group of young people are starting to embrace kimono again, mixing it in with modern elements and introducing fresh new takes on the tradition. Let’s look at some of the ways people are getting creative with their kimono.

A Kimono Comeback

The recent resurgence of fashion that incorporates traditional Japanese elements is thanks in part to visionary Japanese fashion designers. One Japanese visionary who has recently been promoting the beauty of kimono is YOSHIKI, leader of the legendary Japanese rock band X JAPAN. As the son of a kimono shop owner, kimono were always dear to him. He says that while he cherishes tradition, he also wants to express things far removed from tradition, and although things that go outside existing frameworks are sometimes criticized, that is what art is all about. Some of his original creations include kimono featuring imagery from the popular anime "Attack on Titan", and kimono featuring imagery from “Blood Red Dragon,” a Marvel comic that stars YOSHIKI as the main character. His dramatic designs celebrate Japanese and American comics and animation while remaining conscious of Japanese traditions. He wants people to break free from fixed ways of thinking about kimono and enjoy wearing them with a more free-thinking attitude. By fusing cherished traditions with innovative designs, he is contributing to the revitalization of the kimono industry.

YOSHIKI embraces the traditional beauty of kimono while introducing radical changes, like kimono featuring comic book prints. (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)

Left: YOSHIKI is the leader of the legendary Japanese rock band X JAPAN. (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)
Middle: A kimono featuring imagery from the popular anime "Attack on Titan." (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)
Right: A kimono featuring imagery from “Blood Red Dragon,” a Marvel comic that stars YOSHIKI as the main character. (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)

Top: YOSHIKI is the leader of the legendary Japanese rock band X JAPAN. (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)
Middle: A kimono featuring imagery from the popular anime "Attack on Titan." (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)
Bottom: A kimono featuring imagery from “Blood Red Dragon,” a Marvel comic that stars YOSHIKI as the main character. (Photo courtesy of YOSHIKIMONO)

Dressing for the Occasion

An important custom in the world of kimono is coordinating your outfit to suit the occasion. Each element of the finished look, including the kimono, the obi (sash), obidome (sash fastener ornament), and kanzashi (ornamental hairpin) is an opportunity to show you put careful consideration into your look. The season, event, location, and who you will be meeting are just some of the factors you might consider. There are different kimono types depending on the formality of the event, and different flowers and colors associated with each season. But you can even get more specific than that. For example, when attending a friend’s birthday, you might celebrate your friend by wearing their favorite color or something else meaningful to them. Picking up on the subtle meanings in someone’s outfit is part of the fun of kimono.

Left: This winter look features a bamboo and sparrow-patterned kimono and a haori (coat) with a subtle snowflake motif. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)
Right: This kimono look is for the autumn harvest moon. It features fall colors, an obi (sash) with a pattern of new moons and full moons, and a rabbit obidome (sash fastener ornament). Rabbits are associated with the moon in Japanese folklore. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)

Top: This winter look features a bamboo and sparrow-patterned kimono and a haori (coat) with a subtle snowflake motif. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)
Bottom: This kimono look is for the autumn harvest moon. It features fall colors, an obi (sash) with a pattern of new moons and full moons, and a rabbit obidome (sash fastener ornament). Rabbits are associated with the moon in Japanese folklore. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)

Today, young people are embracing this custom in new ways with their boundary-pushing kimono looks. For example, some young people are creating new kimono looks for occasions that are not traditionally Japanese, such as Halloween and Christmas. Others are combining their love of kimono with their love of theme parks by visiting the parks dressed in kimono inspired by their favorite characters. These outfits often contain subtle references for fellow fans to pick up on.

Left: For a Halloween visit to the pumpkin farm, this kimono enthusiast paired a muted, rustic kimono with flourishes of orange in the obiage (belt sash) and obijime (sash fastener) and an obi (sash) with a black cat motif. (Photo courtesy of Kimono Anna)
Right: For a rose-themed British afternoon tea, a woman wears a rose-patterned yukata (a lighter, more casual kimono) with lace accents. (Photo courtesy of creamy_kimono)

Top: For a Halloween visit to the pumpkin farm, this kimono enthusiast paired a muted, rustic kimono with flourishes of orange in the obiage (belt sash) and obijime (sash fastener) and an obi (sash) with a black cat motif. (Photo courtesy of Kimono Anna)
Bottom: For a rose-themed British afternoon tea, a woman wears a rose-patterned yukata (a lighter, more casual kimono) with lace accents. (Photo courtesy of creamy_kimono)

Celebrating the Cultures of the World with Kimono

Another way the tradition of kimono is becoming more modern and cosmopolitan is in the introduction of new fabrics. Just like food and language, fabrics can be expressions of culture. In Japan, there are many kimono fabrics that are specific to different regions. In chilly Niigata Prefecture, Ojiya chijimi is spread out on the snow to dry, producing vibrant whites and colors. In tropical Okinawa, bashofu fabric is made from banana leaves.

Likewise, all over the world fabrics are expressions of local cultures. Now, some kimono enthusiasts are celebrating the cultures of the world by introducing such fabrics into their kimono. One such person we talked to looks for interesting fabrics to use for kimono every time she travels. For example, her original tweed kimono was the result of her trip to England. For her, kimono is a creative outlet that lets her play with the cultures of the world. Another kimono enthusiast was inspired by her Arabic studies and experience studying abroad in Syria to make kimono using Middle Eastern fabrics. She now incorporates fabrics from many regions, including Africa and South and Southeast Asia. She notes that there have been cases of foreign fabrics being used in Japanese clothing going back centuries, so she feels that in a way she is continuing a tradition. The important thing to her is to honor the fabric and its culture, making sure not to cut it in strange places or otherwise treat the fabric disrespectfully.

Left: A kimono enthusiast shows off her custom kimono made from tweed she acquired on a trip to England. She looks for interesting fabrics to use for kimono every time she travels. (Photo courtesy of Kimono Anna)
Middle: This kimono enthusiast embraces fabrics from the Middle East and South and Southeast Asia. Here she wears her kimono made from embroidered Saudi Arabian abaya cloth, an obi (sash) made from Egyptian jalabiya cloth, and an Indian chintz scarf obiage (sash belt). (Photo courtesy of Yuho @arabian_kimono)
Right: This original kimono was made from the fabric of Indian saris. (Photo courtesy of Yuho @arabian_kimono)

Top: A kimono enthusiast shows off her custom kimono made from tweed she acquired on a trip to England. She looks for interesting fabrics to use for kimono every time she travels. (Photo courtesy of Kimono Anna)
Middle: This kimono enthusiast embraces fabrics from the Middle East and South and Southeast Asia. Here she wears her kimono made from embroidered Saudi Arabian abaya cloth, an obi (sash) made from Egyptian jalabiya cloth, and an Indian chintz scarf obiage (sash belt). (Photo courtesy of Yuho @arabian_kimono)
Bottom: This original kimono was made from the fabric of Indian saris. (Photo courtesy of Yuho @arabian_kimono)

Breaking the Rules

The world of kimono can often seem intimidating, even to Japanese people. The fact that there are kimono experts who teach workshops and even an official kimono certification exam shows just how much depth there is to this tradition. But how important is it to follow the rules and customs of kimono?

Even for people who love to get creative and push boundaries with their kimono looks, some rules are better off respected. For example, when closing the front of a kimono, the left side always goes over the right side. The only exception to this rule is for the deceased, so it is better not to get creative here. Clean, neat collars, as well as a single neat tuck under the sash called the “ohashori”, are signs of a seasoned kimono-wearer. Following practices like these shows respect to the kimono tradition, while still leaving endless opportunities for creativity.

Left: Even in this radical denim kimono, we see respect for rules, such as the left-over-right rule. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)
Right: Even as she pushes the envelope with her modern kimono looks, this kimono enthusiast takes pride in her clean collars and tidy ohashori (a single tuck beneath the sash). (Photo courtesy of Kanon Yuuki)

Top: Even in this radical denim kimono, we see respect for rules, such as the left-over-right rule. (Photo courtesy of chansato3)
Bottom: Even as she pushes the envelope with her modern kimono looks, this kimono enthusiast takes pride in her clean collars and tidy ohashori (a single tuck beneath the sash). (Photo courtesy of Kanon Yuuki)

On the other hand, many longtime practitioners are heartened by the young people breaking traditions and breathing new life into kimono. Despite all the rules and customs, it is important to remember that kimono is just clothing. In fact, the word “kimono” literally just means “wearing-thing.” One kimono practitioner says, “I want people to enjoy wearing kimono, even if it’s just to the grocery store.” By embracing both tradition and change, more people are getting into kimono and expanding it as an art form while having fun.