niponica is a web magazine that introduces modern Japan to people all over the world.
2014 No.12
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Strolling Japan
Asakusa and Mukojima
Snacks and Rambles in Yesteryear Tokyo
Here at Ichiban-ya, expert confectioners make senbei rice crackers and serve them just off the grill.
Once you pass through the market you will find yourself gazing up at the pagoda on your left, before entering the inner grounds of the temple. In front of you stands the main building where people pay their respects. When this little ceremony is done, you may want to stroll to the confectionery stall behind the pagoda, which is known for selling kaminari-okoshi. You will enjoy the crunchy texture and rich, sweet taste of these morsels of roasted, steamed rice held together with a sticky candy. You can even try to make some here, too. Take one of the specially designed cans to put them in and take with you—a great souvenir idea.
After your confectionery adventure, avoid the bustle of Nakamise Market and ramble instead toward the Sumida River, with Tokyo Skytree dominating the sky above. On the other side of the river is the Mukojima district, where many other famous sweet foods await. Sakura-mochi (sweet rice cakes wrapped in cherry tree leaves) and colorful dango (dumpling-like sweets) are just two of the delights sold here by long-established shops. If you walk on a little further you will come to Kameido Tenjin Shrine, where you can try kuzu-mochi (a steamed cake made from fermented wheat). It is semi-transparent, refreshingly cool, springy in texture, and fun to bite off in small pieces.
After getting a taste of Tokyo's sweet-town, you might want to go back to the river and take a water bus downstream from Asakusa to Tokyo's busy port—a fun, 40-minute jaunt that passes under several bridges.
Hands-on experience making kaminari-okoshi, at Tokiwado Kaminariokoshi Honpo Co., Ltd. The business was established 250 years ago. Mix together a starchy syrup and sugar, add peanuts, then simmer. Steam rice, dry it, then mash and roast it. Next, add the rice to the simmered mixture, then place in a mold. Cut into pieces suitable for eating and serve.
Photos show ingredients for making kaminari-okoshi, and the final product.
When Chomei-ji Sakura-mochi first came on the market in Old Japan, cherry tree leaves were gathered from the banks of the Sumida River in the Asakusa district, pickled in salt after a good washing, and then wrapping around mochi rice cakes containing bean paste.
Kototoi Dango bean paste balls with three types of flavorings: red adzuki beans, white kidney beans, and brown miso.
Left: The mood in the restaurant is relaxing, and the steamed kuzu-mochi rice cakes have a special taste all their own, topped off with a sprinkling of fragrant toasted soybean flour and black molasses. (By Funabashi-ya Kameido Tenjin-mae Honten)
Right: A water bus takes tourists down the Sumida River to Tokyo's busy port, about 40 minutes away.
Getting there
From Narita International Airport, take the Narita Sky Access Express (about 1 hr), or a limousine bus (about 120 min)
For more info
"Asakusa-Sightseeing" website (about 80 languages, including Arabic, Chinese, English, French, German, Korean, Russian and Spanish):
http://asakusa-kankou.com/
"Visit Sumida" website (English, Chinese and Korean):
http://visit-sumida.jp/