2014 No.12

Another Side of Japan: Snacks and Sweets

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Sweet Tooth Japan

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Stop hiding techniques, and let Japanese sweets spread worldwide

Aoki: Japanese fingers are nimble and aim for delicacy—just think of origami or chopsticks! And our sense of taste aims for it, too. Overall, the Japanese have high expectations when it comes to refinement. Japanese cuisine and wagashi pursue subtlety, whereas Western cuisine and confections generally favor something bolder. I would say, however, that chefs who are learning from Japan know they should keep their list of ingredients simple in order to achieve refinement.

Kurokawa: Someone ranked among the Meilleurs Ouvriers de France (best craftspeople of France) once gave me advice that led me to a personal breakthrough: we should be willing to explain our techniques. We Japanese have tended to pass techniques down in secret. But it's by being open that Japan will be able to make its way more effectively in the world.

Aoki: Yes, people in other countries tend to be forthright, not secretive about what they know.

Kurokawa: I know of one French woman who is in Japan studying really hard to become a wagashi chef, not concerned that she can't speak Japanese. I'd be happy to offer my support to people like her.

Aoki: Three-star restaurants in Europe have people from five, six or more countries working in their kitchens. But the best sushi bars in Japan don't have any non-Japanese prepping the ingredients.

We have to tell people from around the world more about Japan's good points. Then after they visit Japan and return home, they will hopefully give the message to others. People of our generation have to do more to show and teach the world the fine techniques we have.

Kurokawa: The Olympics are coming to Japan in 2020. As you've suggested, it would be good to present visitors to the Games with new Japanese confections that blend the boundaries separating Western sweets and wagashi.

Then, in Japan we'd see crossovers at wagashi stores, at Western-style confectionary shops, and maybe even at convenience stores. It would be great if people from other countries could taste them and see them as being truly representative of Japanese sweets. Mr. Aoki, let's make that happen.

Sweets recreated in the old style, when TORAYA Confectionery supplied confections like these to the Imperial Court in 1812. The illustrated book from those days helped inspire their rebirth. The shapes, color arrangements and tastes all demonstrate the pursuit of refinement. (Photo by Tanai Fumio)

Touzakura ("cherry blossoms in the distance"), by TORAYA Confectionery. The name calls to mind flowering cherry trees on a far-off mountain. To make them, blend bean paste, refined rice flour, water and sugar to make the dough, wrap it around more bean paste, and then coat with strained, colored bean paste.

An unbaked Taori-Zakura formed in a wooden mold. The name tells of a wistful desire to fold cherry blossoms into one's hand and return home with them. They are sold with Touzakura confections, only when the cherry trees are in bloom.

Left: Adzuki and Cacao Fondant baked at TORAYA CAFÉ. Rich and moist. Features chocolate added to an bean paste.
Right: An paste offers new taste options, such as a spread for toast or a sweetener in coffee.