Exciting Changes in the Harajuku Fashion World

(Photo courtesy of 6%DOKIDOKI)

Harajuku is a neighborhood in Tokyo that is known as the heart of the Japanese fashion world. Here young people gather and cutting-edge styles are born, some of which spread overseas. You may even be familiar with past Harajuku styles like Decora, in which people deck themselves out in colorful accessories, or Lolita, in which people dress like dolls. But the fashion scene at Harajuku is constantly evolving, with new styles popping up all the time. How has the scene changed in recent years, and what will be the next style to spread from Harajuku to the world? Let’s look at the current state of Harajuku to see where things are headed.

Market Changes

For most of Harajuku’s history as a fashion district, local street fashion magazines were the main way that ideas spread around the community. But the digital age has not been kind to magazines. In 2017, the largest of these magazines ended its run, marking the end of an era. Today, the spirit of the old Harajuku fashion magazines is carried on by street photographers who run social media accounts. While it is sad to see the old magazines go, the social media accounts have a much wider reach, allowing the latest Harajuku looks to be enjoyed by people all over the world.

There has also been a shift in the scale of business, with small independent creators on the rise. Some new stores are designed to promote independent creators, dividing the store into many small spaces which they lease at a low price. The creators get to customize their space and display their original wares, while the store handles the business side of things. This helps small upstarts get a foot in the door and create a more diverse fashion market for everyone.

The clientele has also changed in recent years. As awareness of Harajuku fashion has spread overseas, the number of foreign customers has increased greatly. Now some shops do more business fulfilling orders for overseas fans than they do in person. The gender of clients has also diversified. Brands are responding to these changes by leaning more into genderless clothing that can be enjoyed by anyone.

New Styles Emerge

In the past, Harajuku fashionistas often devoted themselves to the specific style or genre that they most identified with, whether that be Decora or gothic or Lolita. These days, the boundaries between these worlds are disintegrating. People prefer to create their own unique fashion language by picking and choosing items that speak to them.

Japanese kawaii (cute) fashion has long been a hallmark of Harajuku. Now, kawaii is being blended with other aesthetics to create styles that have never been seen before. Futuristic or cyber kawaii mixes bold neon colors and graphic art reminiscent of the 1980s Japanese “city pop” music genre, with a tendency towards shiny synthetic fabrics. Another strand blends Harajuku kawaii fashion with mecha anime and gaming nerd culture. In this style, cute skirts and stockings are paired with handcrafted acrylic tactical armor befitting an anime robot pilot or an action video game hero. In a seemingly self-contradictory combination, “dark kawaii” blends Japan’s famously adorable character art with gothic style, featuring cute kittens and teddy bears alongside creepy wings and horns, and plenty of black.

Though new styles keep emerging, Harajuku fashion is also sometimes cyclical. Tracksuits and other athletic wear, once deemed uncool and just for gym class, are trending again. While it seems new, industry veterans recognize this as a revival of 1990s fashion. So, when a style fades, it may be less “goodbye” and more “see you soon!”

Embracing Technology

In the design studios where new looks are born, new tools and materials are broadening the kinds of products that can be made and leading to new ways to experience fashion.

One veteran Harajuku fashion designer has been exploring new materials and technologies for decades. Now, he is pushing the boundaries of fashion into the virtual world. His work was featured at a recent exhibition of Japanese kawaii culture in Los Angeles. There, a VR headset and a giant plush bear character were on display. By putting on the VR headset, visitors were able to accessorize the bear in the designer’s signature style – a colorful overload of toys and candy.

Another Japanese artist we spoke to has been making waves around the world with his fantastical acrylic nail designs. Using 3D modeling software and 3D printers, he creates nail art that looks like the stuff of dreams. Though he is now based in New York, he grew up in Tokyo and became engrossed in Harajuku culture from a young age. Now, he makes custom nails for some of the biggest celebrities in the world, from American rappers to Korean idol groups. The Harajuku influence of his creations is clear to see, incorporating futuristic elements, candy colors, and fearsome chrome.