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The search for authenticity in Edo-mae-zushi

How many ways are there to prepare the topping for Edo-mae style sushi? Perhaps too many to count! It takes just a second to mold the rice by hand and put on a topping, but preparing that topping takes many hours. You will see sushi shops all over Japan with signs advertising their “Edo-mae-zushi,” but fewer and fewer of them are following the old techniques faithfully. That is not to say that their nigiri-zushi is no good. But if they do not follow the old techniques, it certainly is not authentic.

A true Edo-mae topping benefits from many long years of innovations in preparation methods, all with the aim of achieving a balance—a harmony between the rice and the topping—and the wonderful taste which that harmonious balance can give. An expert attains this balance in the palm of his hand. The combination of proper technique and ingredients is what makes Edo-mae nigiri-zushi the real thing.

The best makers of Edo-mae nigiri-zushi have mastered the many traditional techniques, and they are able to judge which technique to use for the seafood they choose. They use touch and sight to examine fish and shellfish that comes to their local market from all over the country.

One traditional Edo-mae-zushi shop that has taken the high road in this regard is Kizushi, located in the Ningyo-cho district of central Tokyo. It opened its doors in 1924 and is now ranked among the best in the city. The third-generation owner, Yui Ryuichi, is a master chef combining awesome insight with technical expertise. His nigiri-zushi is delectable to the palate and a feast for the eyes. His shop brings the past into the present, and shows how centuries of innovation can shine in splendor today.

Molded by a master chef, this nigiri-zushi topped with tuna is beautiful to look at. Both hands are used, one to hold the sushi-dane topping, the other to place and mold the sushi-meshi rice. All done in an instant.