NIPPONIA No. 44 March 15, 2008
Bon Appetit! Japanese Culture in the Kitchen
Fish goes well with sake, and so does simple home-style food. You are almost sure to find this kind of food served at an izakaya.
Top left: Yellowtail fish head simmered in a sweet and salty broth.
Top right: Chunks of boiled octopus.
Left: Thick omelet flavored with broth, served with other appetizers.
Above: Pickled vegetables.
The Kanae has a menu of more than 50 items. The honjitsu no o-susume daily specials are written with a calligraphic flourish on a poster on the wall, suggesting food that would go well with different kinds of sake. Each dish features common ingredients that are in season, things that will bring out the flavor of the alcohol. In summer you may want raw sashimi slices of horse mackerel served with chilled sake, in autumn a different fish, saury, broiled with salt and served with sake made from recently harvested rice. In winter, it might be a pot of food simmering in front of you, and on the side, warmed sake. Celebrating the season with your choice of fresh food and drink is another way to enjoy an izakaya.
Until about 20 years ago almost all izakaya customers were male, but today you see plenty of women there, too. This is hardly surprising, because many women have now joined the workforce. The izakaya atmosphere is quite vivacious—it makes for an enjoyable place to talk with friends and the izakaya staff over sake and food. As the evening turns to night, the mood inside becomes more amiable and relaxed. That is what a good izakaya is all about.
When you just want to fill your stomach quickly with food and drink, an izakaya is probably not for you. But if you want to get away from the stress of your workplace or the cares of home, to just relax for a while and get back in touch with yourself, then what place could be better? So sometime soon, pull back the half-curtain in the doorway and go in, just like the Japanese have been doing for hundreds of years. 
