Around 1989, however, new variations of yukata began hitting the market, prompting young women to take a fresh look at this time-honored garment. Previously, most yukata had been made of navy-and-white fabric decorated with traditional Japanese patterns. In 1989, however, popular Japanese fashion designers came out with yukata in brighter, Western-inspired colors and patterns. In the past, women had yukata made to order from fabric they purchased themselves. But when they saw ready-made yukata in retail settings, they began thinking of these garments as finished clothing, and this new perspective sparked a realization: "Hey! There are cute clothes that come from right here in Japan!" And so yukata caught on in a big way.

Simpler Alternative to Western Dress
Women have commonly worn yukata to fireworks displays and other special summer occasions, but now many women wear them as a more basic part of their daily summer wardrobe. For teenagers and women in their twenties, yukata have become another summer dress option, with nontraditional designs ranging from giant sunflowers to red-and-green stripes. Heeled sandals and nylon handbags complete the outfit. The new-look yukata may be frowned upon by those raised on traditional styles, but young women, unbound by convention, appear to be embracing it warmly.

This is not to say that traditional Japanese designs have been completely abandoned. In 1997 young people went back to the fabrics and patterns of older clothes; the craze extended beyond yukata to include blouses, dresses, and bags made from yukata fabric. Geta (traditional Japanese wooden-soled thong sandals) worn with Western clothing became a popular combination as well.

The yukata season is upon us once more, and in addition to the new designs decribed above, easier-to-wear variants are also coming out. For example, some yukata now have the traditional midriff tuck sewn into place. (Traditionally, wearers tuck the extra fabric around the midsection to adjust the hemline and tie a sash over it to hold it in place.)

The variety of footwear and accessories designed to complement yukata is also growing. Mules, or sandals with heels, are currently in vogue, and now there are mules with geta thongs. Also on the market are geta inspired by the "massage sandals" popular in Japan. Handbag options include not only see-through tote bags made of nylon or mesh, but also Japanese-style bags with nontraditional patterns. Women will surely keep finding even more different ways to wear yukata. Department stores are hosting yukata fashion shows and heating up their sales campaigns with an eye to July and August, the heart of the yukata season.