NIPPONIA No. 40 March 15, 2007
Special Feature
The Cute World of Kawaii
Gothic yet Girlish
Fairy tale heroines come to life in the 21st century
Young women dressed like Alice in Wonderland, Snow White and other nursery tale characters appear on the street, bringing childhood fantasies of the past to modern Japan. Their fantastical apparel, a mix of gothic and girlish, could be considered another manifestation of costume play (cosplay). One theory has it that the fashion began as a spin-off from clothes worn by punk rock fans.
The gothic element focuses on black, with symbols from a world of darkness, while the girlish factor plays up sweet, doll-like innocence. The two combine into a fashion culture that is uniquely Japanese.
Mayu (21) is a university student swept up by the fashion, especially the girlish side of it. "As soon as I put on a costume I feel special. I especially like costumes that bring out the princess in me."
At university she dresses like her classmates, but at an event or concert with her friends she takes on a different persona (see photos).
(1) Mayu chose pink for her iPod, because "what could be cuter?" (2) Animé DVDs featuring antique doll heroines, favorites among the goth-girl crowd. (3) In the real world, Mayu is a university student majoring in British and American literature. But when she goes to some event, like a concert, she undergoes a radical transformation. (4) Red one piece, with ribboned katyusha headpiece made from the same cloth. The crown in the middle of the ribbon? "That's my idea." (5) Her small carryall matches the headpiece. (6) For the feet: ballerina-style shoes. The overall effect is sweet girlhood.
Four goth-girl enthusiasts in Harajuku, Tokyo, a favorite place for groups like theirs.
"In these clothes I really stand out, so I try to make sure everything is just right. The important thing is to be cute and classy."
She and her friends attract curious eyes, but they take it all in stride. Mayu looks at things objectively: "I think I look cute, but I don't expect everyone to agree with me."
In her ample skirt, her impressive ribboned katyusha headpiece, her matching ribboned pochette bag, her white tights and ballerina shoes, the overall effect is perfection, beauty with an emphasis on red.
"The ribbons, the frills, the lace — they are all cute and childlike. When I wear them my childhood comes back, fulfilling my dreams. If I can't live in a cute world, I feel something important is missing." 
