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NIPPONIA No.33 June 15, 2005 |
Japan Travelogue |
Rikuchu Coast National Park is a strip of coastline and water along the Pacific Ocean in northeastern Honshu, the main island of Japan. Almost the entire length, about 180 km, is in Iwate Prefecture. The coast, one of the most scenic in all of Japan, has two distinct parts. One of these is an emergent coast north of Miyako Bay there the land has been lifted up, giving the waves an opportunity to erode the shoreline and make long cliffs and reefs. South of the bay is an old submerged coastline, where valleys were drowned as the oceans began rising worldwide some 10,000 years ago. There you will find a jagged coastline of inlets and headlands.
Nature has molded the Rikuchu Coast, and huge tsunamis strike the area from time to time. The natural scenery is so charming it is hard to believe that some settlements along the coast lost more than half of their residents in tsunamis sweeping ashore after earthquakes under the sea near the Sanriku district, in 1896 and 1933.
A railway line winds its way along the coast, offering local services for residents. The trains, operated by Sanriku Tetudou Corporation, usually have only one or two railcars, but they offer a great way to see the wild coastal scenery. The best place to board the train may be Miyako, the starting point for the Kita Rias railway line.
The small city of Miyako is the main point of entry for tourists coming to the Rikuchu Coast. You will see that the Sanriku district here has an active fishing industry, based mainly on saury, cod and salmon. Go to Miyako Station to ride the rails, probably on a cute one-car train. The railcar sways from side to side, going clickety-clack and carrying local students and elderly people to their destinations. One tunnel comes after another, offset with views of small villages hugging the tracks.
One good place to get off for a while is Tanohata Station. From there it is not far to Kitayamazaki Point, one of the best places to admire the Rikuchu Coast. From the look-off you will gaze straight down about 200 meters at waves throwing themselves against the cliffs. Get a grip on yourself, or your legs might start shaking! The ragged cliffs stretch 8 km along the coast, marked by cavities showing the effect of wave erosion. Here, nature has patiently spent the centuries creating some stupendous scenery.
And then it is time to get back on the Sanriku Railroad. If you time it right, you can take a luxury train designed to bring back the good old days of rail comfort carpeted aisles, chandelier lighting, old-fashioned cozy seating for groups of four.... The train makes only one return trip daily.
The train slows to a crawl just before crossing the iron bridge over the Akka River. The vast Pacific Ocean stretches out below, raising the spirits of everyone inside the train. When the sea is calm, it is dyed a deep yet shimmering blue and tinged with mystery.
Your conductor may be Ringo Tetsumi, who will explain that the train slows down here to let passengers enjoy the scenery. He may tell you that passengers can see salmon swimming upstream in the fall. He is always happy to see people experiencing the natural environment here.
About 20 minutes later, you will arrive at Kuji, the final station. This place is known for its uni bento, a boxed lunch made by boiling uni (sea urchin) with rice, then placing steamed uni on top. What could be a better way to enjoy a meal featuring the bounty of the sea off the Sanriku district?
Kitayamazaki Point is just one of many scenic spots along the line. Other unique places for the scenery lover are Jodogahama Beach, with white rocks towering above the clear water, the magnificent Unosu Cliffs, where the ocean takes on different colors to highlight the rocky bluffs, and Sannoiwa, famous for its three strange rock formations jutting out of the water.
The ocean has carved the Rikuchu Coast into amazing vistas and an infinite variety of natural formations, all waiting to awe you with their beauty.
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