Bold patterns of dahlias, sunflowers, and other flowers are among this year's popular yukata designs. (Jiji)

The popularity of yukata (lightweight cotton summer kimono), which has been evident for the past few summers, continues unabated. With a heat wave in full flow, Tokyo department stores report that sales of yukata are up 20% on last year. In recent years pastel-colored yukata with cute patterns have been all the rage, but this summer has seen the emergence of a more mature style reminiscent of Taisho era (1912-1926) romanticism, featuring chic color combinations of white, black, and navy material patterned with big prints of designs like morning glories, chrysanthemums, fireworks, and goldfish.

Foreign Labels Join the Fray
Many yukata are being sold complete with fans, money pouches, and other accessories, with retro and classical Japanese items proving particularly popular. These products are aimed at working women in their twenties and thirties and are priced at around ¥27,000 to ¥29,000 (about $225 to $240 at ¥120 to the dollar).

Analysts suggest that this year differs from most years in that many women are looking to add a second yukata to their wardrobes, one that is different to the yukata they already own. For example, British-style patterns of roses or daisies are adding an unusual flowery European look that has not been seen on yukata before.

	Innovative designs are popular with young women.

Famous apparel makers from outside Japan have been keenly developing yukata exclusively for the Japanese market. Jean-Paul Gaultier's yukata are patterned with dragons, a bold design just like those of the label's Western clothes. Gaultier apparently insists on choosing both the patterns and the colors himself. Meanwhile, Michel Klein has teamed up with a traditional Japanese kimono maker in Kyoto to produce yukata targeted at a younger clientele. Even Benetton, the Italian brand known for its colorful casual wear, has begun selling yukata and related accessories. It has been holding a "yukata fair" on its online shopping site and rewarding shoppers with specially designed hair clips.

Young Women Choose Daring Designs
The yukata boom has spread to the group that holds most sway in shaping fashion trends in Japan - teenage girls. The fashion fads of middle- and high-school girls who hang out in the Shibuya area of Tokyo tend to spread nationwide in a flash. The current favorites among these "Shibuya teens" are yukata in primary colors patterned with goldfish or flowers or emblazoned with poppy Western designs like polka dots or camouflage. Checks and stars are also popular. Some of the more radical yukata even consist of an open-shouldered top and a separate miniskirt. Although this sounds just like Western clothes, when the wearers tie up their obi (belts) and walk around in geta (Japanese clogs), there is no doubt they are wearing a yukata. These bold yukata were designed by illustrators who make backgrounds for mobile-phone Internet sites and are well-versed in teen-fashion trends. The ensemble costs less than ¥8,000 ($67).

Making Yukata Easier to Wear
Unlike Western clothes, putting on a yukata requires special skills known as kitsuke (dressing). Wearers also need to know how to adjust their yukata if it comes loose while they are out and about, and some have trouble getting used to the thongs on their geta. Recently, however, not only have separate yukata tops and bottoms hit the market, but makers have produced obi with ready-tied knots that are easier to fasten. Such convenience means yukata fans can even take their favorite garments with them when they holiday abroad.

Yukata have become a new tool enabling people to discover their true selves. "Yukata days" on which staff wear yukata at work have become a fixture at some banks and other firms around Japan. With so many different patterns, designs, dyes, and prices to choose from, the yukata looks set to retain its position at the pinnacle of summer fashion for quite a while.