The golden shachihoko are the symbol of Nagoya Castle. (C)Nagoya Convention & Visitors Bureau

Enlarge photo

Tokugawaen garden, a distillation of natural Japanese scenery. (C)Nagoya Convention & Visitors Bureau

Enlarge photo

Nagoya, the capital of Aichi Prefecture, is the largest city in the Chubu region of central Honshu. The present-day city of Nagoya got its start in 1610, when the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu moved the principal castle town of the Kiyosu domain six kilometers to its present-day location and built several important new structures, including a castle donjon adorned with glittering golden shachihoko (an imaginary animal with the head of a tiger and the body of a fish) and a residential section of houses arranged on a grid. Nagoya has continued to grow and develop ever since, holding on to its rich samurai past while growing into one of the world’s leading centers of the automobile industry together with the neighboring city of Toyota.

400 Years of HistoryBuilt by the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1612, Nagoya Castle is one of the finest in Japan, and makes an ideal introduction to the city. The castle flourished as the residence of the powerful Owari branch of the shogun’s family until the Meiji Restoration removed the Tokugawa from power in 1868. The golden shachihoko (an imaginary animal with the head of a tiger and the body of a fish) that adorn the donjon have become a beloved symbol of the city, and are a must-see on any traveler’s itinerary. Visitors to the castle are transported back in time to the Edo period as they stroll through the exhibits on display inside the main donjon, which include screens, paintings and other artworks, and a wide range of swords, armor, and other samurai items.

The Tokugawaen garden is an excellent place to continue your exploration of Nagoya’s samurai past. Originally built for the local daimyo (feudal lord) in 1695, this traditional Japanese-style garden was reconstructed and reopened as Tokugawaen in 2005. Straight ahead of you as you pass through the Kuromon (Black Gate) made from whole Japanese zelkova trees is the Tokugawa Art Museum, which houses a collection of Tokugawa Ieyasu’s personal belongings as well as nine national treasures, including the world-famous Tale of Genji Scrolls. To the left is a faithful reproduction of an Edo-period water garden just like the one the local daimyo would once have walked in.

After immersing yourself in Nagoya’s historical charms, why not get a taste of modern life in the city by visiting one of Nagoya’s many lively hotspots? A good way to acquaint yourself with Nagoya’s contemporary flair is to head to the collection of stylish buildings in front of Nagoya Station, such as Midland Square or JR Central Towers, where you can sample everything from gourmet cuisine to cutting-edge fashion.

Miso katsu, a pork cutlet topped with a sweet miso-flavored sauce. (C)Nagoya Convention & Visitors Bureau

Enlarge photo

Local Specialties on ParadeSituated roughly halfway between Tokyo and the Kansai region, which includes Osaka and Kyoto, Nagoya has developed its own unique culinary culture. Nagoya is home to a number of specialties found nowhere else, making it well worth a trip just to enjoy the food alone. Top of any list of Nagoya specialties would have to be miso katsu, a deep-fried pork cutlet in breadcrumbs topped with a special sweet sauce made from the local Hatcho miso (soybean paste), bonito stock, and sugar. With a distinctively sharp flavor, Hatcho miso is produced only in Aichi Prefecture and unlike other types of miso is made exclusively from soybeans, without the addition of rice or wheat. Once you try pork cutlets with this thick, rich sauce, you will keep coming back for more. Miso nikomi udon, a hot noodle dish that uses the same miso paste, is another popular item with the distinctively rich Nagoya flavor.

Another popular dish is chicken wings from the Nagoya Cochin chicken, bred exclusively in Aichi Prefecture. The wings were once considered one of the least appetizing parts of the chicken, and were often simply thrown away, but Nagoya’s painstaking preparation methods and delicious sauce have made Cochin chicken wings a favorite finger food throughout Japan. Nagoya’s other signature foods include hitsumabushi, the region’s unique take on grilled eel and rice, and ten-musu, a kind of onigiri (a ball of rice wrapped in nori seaweed) containing a piece of shrimp tempura. You should certainly not miss out on Nagoya’s unique food culture if you are in the area. The region is also famous for its uiro, a traditional Japanese sweet made from steamed rice and sugar. (November 2010)

Nagoya’s colorful uiro come in a variety of flavors, including azuki beans and matcha green tea. (C)Nagoya Convention & Visitors Bureau

Enlarge photo

The ten-musu—a rice ball containing a tempura shrimp. (C)Omusubi Gonbei

Enlarge photo