The dance pavilion at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine. (C)Kamakura City Tourist Association

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The Kamakura Daibutsu at Kotokuin.
(C)Kamakura City Tourist Association

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Like Kyoto and Nara, Kamakura is an ancient city with a wealth of historic monuments and temples. Surrounded by mountains on three sides, with the sea to the south, this small town was the seat of political power in Japan for 140 years after the shogun Minamoto no Yoritomo (1147-1199) established the Kamakura Shogunate here some 800 years ago. As the political and administrative center of the country, Kamakura drew large numbers of Buddhist monks from China, and grew into a flourishing center of religion and the arts.

Glimpses of Japan’s feudal past can still be seen in Kamakura, making this a perfect destination for foreign visitors, not least because of its handy location just an hour from Tokyo by train. With its abundant nature and rich sense of history, Kamakura offers endless discoveries to charm Japanese and foreign visitors alike.

A Trip Back in TimeA 10-minute walk from Kamakura Station on the JR and Enoshima Electric Railway (“Enoden”) lines, Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine is a must-see for first-time visitors to the city. This ancient shrine was rebuilt by Yoritomo to serve as the center of his government, and in the city’s heyday it was the venue for important government functions. A variety of festivals that developed from these historical ceremonies continue to be held there today.

The grounds of the shrine contain many points of interest, including a runway for horseback archery and a pavilion for sacred dances. The two streets leading to the shrine, Wakamiya Oji and Komachi Dori, are lined with popular souvenir shops and restaurants.

It is north of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, in Kita Kamakura, that the most vivid reminders of feudal times are to be found. The area is home to a large number of ancient temples, including three of Kamakura’s five great Zen temples. Many old houses and shops have also survived.

Kenchoji is the oldest Zen temple in Japan. The Sanmon (main gate), Butsuden (Buddha Hall), and other important buildings are arranged in a single line, in accordance with Zen traditions. The architecture is strongly reminiscent of Chinese Song Dynasty (960-1279) Buddhist architecture.

On the grounds of the temple are numerous important historical sites and remains, among them several objects that have been designated national treasures, such as the temple’s impressive thirteenth-century temple bell.

Autumn leaves at Kamakuragu shrine.
(C)Kamakura City Tourist Association

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North of Kenchoji is Engakuji, another great Zen temple. Set in expansive grounds measuring 60,000 square meters and surrounded by a deep valley on all sides, the temple is famous for a number of buildings that embody the essence of Zen Buddhism, including Shariden Hall, a national treasure, and Butsunichian, the mausoleum of a famous samurai leader that appears in many famous Japanese literary works.

Kotokuin is home to a monumental Buddha statue, called “Daibutsu” in Japanese. For many Japanese people, this colossal image is a symbol of Kamakura itself. The temple is a 10-minute walk from Hase Station, itself just five minutes from Kamakura Station on the Enoden line. The Daibutsu was originally carved out of wood in 1243 but was recast in bronze in 1252 after a typhoon in 1247. The statue reaches 13.35 meters from the foot of its pedestal to the tip of its crown. The ears alone are nearly two meters long. Weighing in at 120 tons, the Daibutsu is the only Buddhist statue in Kamakura to have been designated a national treasure. The Kamakuragu Shrine is famous for its beautiful autumn foliage.

The small island of Enoshima, a 25-minute train ride from Kamakura station on the Enoden line, shows a very different side of Kamakura and makes an interesting diversion. Just four kilometers in circumference, the island has been a popular destination since the Edo period (1603-1867). Today it is joined to the mainland by two bridges, one for cars and the other for bicycles and pedestrians.

The popular Enoshima Shrine is dedicated to Benten, goddess of water as well as good fortune, the arts, and entertainment. Another major draw is the opportunity to sample the local seafood at the shops and restaurants along the shoreline.

Horseback archery at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine. (C)Kamakura City Tourist Association

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Hato sabure cookies. (C)Toshimaya co., ltd.

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Traditional FareElaborate multi-course meals called kaiseki are another part of the Kamakura culinary experience. Ideally positioned between the mountains and the sea, Kamakura is blessed with a wealth of natural ingredients, and the city has a large number of long-established restaurants dedicated to the preparation of these multi-course meals. Fans of tofu should try tofu kaiseki, one of the vegetarian courses with deep ties to Kamakura’s rich Zen Buddhist traditions. Made according to traditional methods, the tofu is served in a myriad of delicious ways to bring out the light fluffy texture and subtle flavors of the soya beans.

Kamakura has long been known for its exclusive vacation homes and for excellent restaurants serving Japan’s unique twists on “Western-style” cuisine. A number of restaurants have opened in converted residences, allowing guests to enjoy a pleasant stroll around the old neighborhoods of the city after their meal. Kamakura is also famous for its whitebait. Be sure to try shirasu-don, in which raw or boiled whitebait are served over a bowl of white rice.

Also popular with Japanese travelers to Kamakura are the crunchy dove-shaped butter cookies known as hato sabure, which have been a popular Kamakura specialty since a local shopkeeper started making his own interpretations of European biscuits in the Meiji era (1868-1912). The name comes from the French word sablé, which in the Japanese pronunciation sounds somewhat similar to the common boy's name Saburo. The dove motif was inspired by the plaque above the main prayer hall at Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine, where the character for "Hachi" is shaped to look like a dove.

Handicraft lovers should check out Kamakura-bori lacquer ware, still produced by techniques developed 700 years ago. Many pieces are designed to be used on an everyday basis, and part of their beauty lies in seeing their color and tone change over time. Kamakura-bori is the perfect way to create a lasting memory of a trip to Kamakura. (October 2010)