Built on an 80-meter hill, this castle looks very beautiful from the section of the Kiso-gawa River that flows under a cliff on the hill's north slope. When the castle was dismantled in 1965 for major repairs, scholars determined that it had been built in the early 17th century. It was expanded in 1617, giving it the appearance we see today. The three-storied main tower was constructed by adding a covered lookout to a two-story watchtower. The main tower is said to be similar in design to other very early ones. It is one of the oldest extant main towers in Japan and has been designated a National Treasure. This castle is famous for another reason as well--it is the only one in Japan owned by a private individual.

This castle was part of the defenses of the ancient Ryukyu Kingdom, which developed a unique culture because of its position between Japan and China. The castle was completed in the mid-15th century by Gosamaru, an official who served the kingdom. It overlooks the Pacific Ocean. You can still admire its arched gate and fine stonework. The castle was registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Property in 2000, along with Shuri Castle and other monuments in Okinawa.

Himeji Castle is truly beautiful, and its white, plastered walls are one of its most beautiful features. The man in charge of repairing the plaster is Tabuchi Yasushi. With 47 years of experience on the job, he's a real expert. He began learning the trade as soon as he finished junior high school, studying under the late Yamawaki Toraji, a master plasterer. Yamawaki participated in the comprehensive repairs on Himeji Castle, which began in 1956.
Tabuchi says, "He was a master craftsman in every way. He told me, 'Learn your trade by watching me and others, and take what we know.' Experience was my only teacher."
One technique a castle plasterer has to learn is to get the proportions just right when he mixes gluey seaweed, lime, shell lime and water to make a plaster that will stay on exterior walls for a long time. It takes 8 to 10 years to master just this part of the trade. And it takes a lot of skill to apply the plaster, too. "The trick is not to put it on too smooth, but to leave a pattern of minute bumps and hollows, to create a soft, mellow effect. That's the most difficult part of the job."
Every year, repairs at Himeji Castle begin in September and end the following March. During that time only a few places can be repaired, because the work must be done meticulously. Tabuchi says it takes 30 to 40 years before the castle is completely replastered. "I'm in seventh heaven when I look at the castle from a distance," he says. He has a right to be proud--the castle is registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Property, and he helps keep it in good shape.