Morning comes early at the Tsukiji market. The auction for commercial dealers begins in the inner market at 5 AM. The middle traders make their purchases, then transport the fish to their shops in another part of the inner market for sale to restaurateurs and retailers.

Although people are free to take a tour of the inner market, the shops here do not sell their products to the general public. But there is an outer market next door where anyone can shop. The narrow streets of the outer market are packed with over 400 stalls and shops that include fresh fish and produce vendors, cooking utensil dealers, and places to eat and drink, and it is fun just to stroll along the streets taking in the atmosphere. As the vendors target their wares mainly at commercial buyers, goods of reliable quality are available for low prices. The selection of kitchen knives, the lifeblood of professional chefs, represents the pinnacle of traditional craftsmanship.

There are several requirements for an excursion to Tsukiji. First, get up early. Second, wear everyday clothing and shoes that can get wet. Another ironclad rule is to go on an empty stomach. Why? Because the restaurants cater to the highly educated palates of people in the food business by opening at 5 AM and serving meals prepared from ingredients that have just been bought. A breakfast made with fresh-caught fish or farm-fresh produce is a rare treat. Japanese and Western-style dishes as well as ramen noodles are available, all delicious and low priced. Naturally, the selection of Japanese food is extensive and includes many different types of fish, which may be served raw, boiled, or grilled. Since freshness is the main determining factor in the taste of raw fish, the Tsukiji market is a particularly good place to sample sushi and sashimi. Because the restaurants open so early in the morning, many of them close by early afternoon.