| The price of sushi has always been kept high by a brisk market,
but recently the price breakdown has reached even this food category. The best
place to get cheap sushi is at a kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt
sushi) restaurant. At a regular sushi restaurant, the pieces of fish on rice are
made to order. But at a kaiten-zushi outlet, pieces
of sushi are made up in advance and placed on plates on a circular conveyor belt.
Customers sit at the counter around the conveyor belt, and when a type of sushi
they want comes around to them, they take the plate off the belt. A good place
to get affordable sushi made with very fresh ingredients is the Tsukiji
market, reputedly the largest fish market in the world. There are a great many
sushi restaurants in and around the market, and while most of them serve sushi
directly over the counter, one outlet goes by the conveyor-belt style. There are
now kaiten-zushi restaurants in every part of Tokyo,
and a long line of people waiting out front can be taken as a sign that a restaurant
offers particularly good sushi at reasonable prices.
It is impossible to walk far in Tokyo without seeing a ramen restaurant. This
type of noodle has long been one of Japan's most popular fast-food for the masses,
but over the past few years a subclass of serious ramen foodies has emerged, and
the number of establishments catering to them has risen sharply. There are even
several guidebooks on ramen shops, and noodle gourmets armed with these books
go out walking in search of the ultimate ramen experience. The battle for ramen
supremacy is particularly fierce in Ebisu, where several well-known shops vie
for the customer's palate. Invariably, there is a direct correlation between the
length of the line out front and the taste of the food.
In Japan, particularly in big cities like Tokyo, people - especially men -
often treat themselves after a long, hard day of work by stopping in at a small
drinking establishment or street stall that serves yakitori
(grilled chicken skewers). A drink and a bite to eat helps fortify them for the
homeward commute, which may involve a train ride of over an hour, since the high
price of real estate forces most people to live some distance from where they
work. This fact of life explains why train stations in Tokyo always have drinking
establishments located nearby. The winning combination of yakitori and beer (or
sake) provides the ideal backdrop for co-workers to release their stress by grumbling
about the boss or their jobs. Though the clientele at a yakitori place consists
mainly of locals, a foreign visitor who steps through the door is bound to receive
a hearty welcome. The Japanese, reserved most of the time, become quite sociable
after a few drinks.
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