kaiten-zushi
Kaiten-zushi (©Sunmarch)




ramen
People waiting in line at a ramen shop




yakitori shop
Yakitori shop

Shinbashi
A street in Shinbashi lined with cheap drinking establishments

yakitori
Yakitori (©JNTO)
The price of sushi has always been kept high by a brisk market, but recently the price breakdown has reached even this food category. The best place to get cheap sushi is at a kaiten-zushi (conveyor-belt sushi) restaurant. At a regular sushi restaurant, the pieces of fish on rice are made to order. But at a kaiten-zushi outlet, pieces of sushi are made up in advance and placed on plates on a circular conveyor belt. Customers sit at the counter around the conveyor belt, and when a type of sushi they want comes around to them, they take the plate off the belt. A good place to get affordable sushi made with very fresh ingredients is the Tsukiji market, reputedly the largest fish market in the world. There are a great many sushi restaurants in and around the market, and while most of them serve sushi directly over the counter, one outlet goes by the conveyor-belt style. There are now kaiten-zushi restaurants in every part of Tokyo, and a long line of people waiting out front can be taken as a sign that a restaurant offers particularly good sushi at reasonable prices.

It is impossible to walk far in Tokyo without seeing a ramen restaurant. This type of noodle has long been one of Japan's most popular fast-food for the masses, but over the past few years a subclass of serious ramen foodies has emerged, and the number of establishments catering to them has risen sharply. There are even several guidebooks on ramen shops, and noodle gourmets armed with these books go out walking in search of the ultimate ramen experience. The battle for ramen supremacy is particularly fierce in Ebisu, where several well-known shops vie for the customer's palate. Invariably, there is a direct correlation between the length of the line out front and the taste of the food.

In Japan, particularly in big cities like Tokyo, people - especially men - often treat themselves after a long, hard day of work by stopping in at a small drinking establishment or street stall that serves yakitori (grilled chicken skewers). A drink and a bite to eat helps fortify them for the homeward commute, which may involve a train ride of over an hour, since the high price of real estate forces most people to live some distance from where they work. This fact of life explains why train stations in Tokyo always have drinking establishments located nearby. The winning combination of yakitori and beer (or sake) provides the ideal backdrop for co-workers to release their stress by grumbling about the boss or their jobs. Though the clientele at a yakitori place consists mainly of locals, a foreign visitor who steps through the door is bound to receive a hearty welcome. The Japanese, reserved most of the time, become quite sociable after a few drinks.