2. More than Four Centuries of Hot Water

wall painting
A wall painting of Mount Fuji in a sento (©PANA)
There is historical evidence that suggests sento were in operation in what is now Tokyo as early as 1590. These baths were generally outfitted with rooms for customers to relax after getting clean, and they served as social gathering spots in those days. These early facilities, however, were steam rooms more like today's saunas; it was not until the 1600s that tubs for soaking made their appearance. Even then the tubs were rather small in size, a fact that illustrated the value of water as a resource back then. It was only in the Meiji period (1868-1912) that sento started being constructed along modern lines, with spacious washing and bathing areas and high ceilings.

The few surviving sento from the prewar era look almost like traditional temples or shrines. These wooden structures with high, peaked roofs are decorated with carvings and paintings of cranes, hawks, and other creatures signifying good fortune. The artistic quality of these old buildings is such that some people go to the public bath to appreciate the architecture, not to enjoy the waters.

The decor inside the baths is another sight to see. If you take a trip to a sento built around 40 years ago, you might be lucky enough to bathe beneath a huge image of natural splendor. These painted walls - which usually showed a landscape involving water somehow, most commonly a snow-capped Mount Fuji viewed above a rough sea - were a common feature of the bathing halls built some decades ago. But this tradition is on the decline now, as the number of craftsmen who can paint the pictures dwindles and no new artists step up to take their place.