Just west of Asakusa is Ueno, another busy district where the
flavor of old downtown Tokyo lingers on. A shopping street called Ameyoko, renowned
as a bargain lover's mecca, runs along the Yamanote train line from Ueno Station
to adjacent Okachimachi Station. Ameyoko is crammed with nearly 500 shops, whose
proprietors loudly hawk everything from fresh fish and confections to clothing
and sporting goods. The atmosphere becomes particularly raucous around the end
of the year, when it seems as if the entire population of Tokyo comes here looking
for low-priced ingredients to use in the special dishes eaten during the New Year
holiday period.
But Ueno also has a more culturally refined side. Inside Ueno Park are several
world-class museums, including the National Museum of Western Art, the Tokyo National
Museum, and the National Science Museum. The collection of the National Museum
of Western Art contains several famous sculptures by Auguste Rodin, including
The Gates of Hell, The Thinker, and The Burghers of Calais. And
the museum building itself was designed by the Swiss architect Le Corbusier. Also
located inside Ueno Park is Ueno Zoo - naturally a favorite among the kids - where
the giant pandas are the star attraction.
To the northwest of Ueno are the hilly, narrow streets of Yanaka, Nezu, and Sendagi.
These traditional neighborhoods, which managed to escape the ravages of the great
earthquake of 1923 and the World War II bombings, are among the few places where
the old Tokyo cityscape remains intact. Furniture makers, metalworkers, and other
practitioners of traditional crafts flourish here. The atmosphere, at once casual
and tinged with nostalgia, is mysterious. The center of activity in this quiet
town is the Yanaka Ginza Shopping Center, which retains a retro ambience in tribute
to the area's historic character. Walking on this narrow, 150-meter-long street
is like traveling back in time.
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