(1) Arm-Rest Covered with Brocade
Nara period, 8th century
Length 78.0 cm; Width 23.0 cm; Height 19.0 cm
(Shosoin, Nara Prefecture)

This is the "phoenix pattern brocade on purple cloth" mentioned in the catalog of "national treasures" housed at the Shosoin in Nara. This oblong arm-rest, which is completely covered with brocade (nishiki), was used by Emperor Temmu in the 8th century. The focus of the ornamentation is a representation of a phoenix with outstretched claws and widely opened wings in the middle of a circle delineated by a so-called karakusa (arabesque foliage) design. The brocade patterns are achieved using a skilful combination of green, yellow, white, red, and purple threads. It is a particularly fine example, in terms of both color and design, of the several brocade works housed in the Shosoin.

(2) Dobuku with Paulownia and Arrow Patterns
Momoyama period, 16th century
(Kyoto National Museum)

A dobuku was a short-sleeved garment worn over a silk garment called a kosode, covering the upper part of the torso. This doboku is said to have belonged to Toyotomi Hideyoshi, having been presented to his retainer at the time of the Odawara Campaign which resulted in the political and military defeat of the Later Hojo family in 1590. Its light-hearted patterns are tie-dyed in three colors: purple, pale yellow, and grass green.

(3) Kosode with Autumn Flower Patterns Design
by Ogata Korin
Edo period, 18th Century
(Tokyo National Museum)

This silk kosode is said to have been designed by Ogata Korin for the matron of the Fuyuki family with whom he lived during visits in Edo. Depicted on the white cloth are patterns of four autumn flowers: kiku (chrysanthemums), hagi (Japanese bush clover), kikyo (bellflowers), and susuki (Japanese pampas grass). The lines are unfettered and the composition is well-balanced, relatively "lighter" around the shoulders and relatively fuller toward the lower part of the garment.